Among the highlights that were announced ahead of this new
edition of Milan Fashion Week that is taking place these days in the popular
Italian city, considered in its own right as one of the main international
fashion capitals, will be held this past Wednesday the parade of Roberto
Cavalli. Italian fashion house that was in charge of closing the opening day of
this edition, in what ended up being the brand's triumphant return to the
official calendar of a Milan Fashion Week, which used so much to present its
women's collection for the next Spring / Summer season of 2022, as to make
official the new stage in which the firm has entered, now under the creative
direction of Fausto Puglisi.
The Sicilian designer, who was appointed Cavalli's new
creative director last October 2020, made his debut in this way for the first
time since taking office on the catwalk presenting his second collection for
the house. A proposal born from its own heritage and from the firm's own
archives, material that Puglisi did not hesitate to reissue and
recontextualize, shaping a collection that gave off the same force as Cavalli
of past decades, but in whose language the Sicilian has ended up incorporating
new motifs, tonalities and creative codes, in what was presented as a natural
evolution of the house from its origins, which will still have to wait for
future collections to be able to finally determine the meaning and direction
that the firm is now taking under the baton of the Italian designer.
Tribute to the Cavalli of the 2000s
As the leitmotif of the proposal, Puglisi reinterpreted one
of the most iconic garments in the history of Cavalli: an evening slip dress
with a bias skirt and tiger print, which was commissioned to present a
statuesque Cindy Crawford during the parade of the Autumn / Winter 2001/2002
collection of the Italian house. Model used by the creative, to extract the
image of a tiger that well combines the strength, magnetism and the taste for
excess that have always characterized the firm, and that made it the central
motif of each and every one of them. the garments that were shown on the
catwalk.
Uniting in this way the traditional animal prints with which
the firm has been identifying so well, together with a marked contemporary
stamp introduced through light, although accurate, nuances and details, they
stood out on the catwalk from the “cut-out minidress ”Black with iridescence
and a tiger print that opened the show, up to the wide profusion that followed
it of flowing dresses, minidresses, coats, jackets or even contemporary
leggings, all in tiger-orange print. The same pattern that could be observed on
the limited men's pieces that are also included in this collection, a proposal
that ends up being completed with a series of garments and shades more at the
forefront in terms of the creative language of the house, such as sandals. and
heels in the shape of hooves and claws,
Haute couture garments that scream "I'm the
party"
As a last note, from Cavalli they underline the elevated
character that has been sought to print to the collection, in search of a
return to that collecting that not only allows increasing the value of the
garments, but also that they are more timeless in what is it translates into a
lengthening of a useful life that keeps them away from the rhythms of trends.
Some pieces with a more typical haute couture manufacture, and thus more
sustainable in terms of value and use of resources, among which they stand out
as part of this collection from sumptuous coats with hand-sewn brocades, up to
different evening dresses with rhinestone inlays in animal print,
“The idea of collectibles is back”, with a “spectacular
jacquard coat with a black background on which iridescent hand-sewn brocades
are revealed”, while the “evening dresses have been sculpted using the moulage
technique”. from Cavalli, through a statement, about this collection; with
which the Italian house “looks at nature with a gaze of love and, as in the 2000s,
shouts”, with the force of a tiger, “I am the party”.
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