Paris - Paris Fashion Week pays tribute to the exuberance
and creative madness of Thierry Mugler, a fashion designer, artist, and
photographer who marked an era in the 1970s and 1980s with his spectacular
shows, so far removed from the virtual world that he brought the Covid-19.
"It is important to show what Thierry Mugler represents
in 2021 for the new generations, who are perhaps more uniform and less prone to
creativity in a more commercial fashion," explains Thierry-Maxime Loriot,
curator of the tribute exhibition that opens on Thursday at the Museum of
Decorative Arts.
Thierry Mugler was one of the fetish couturiers for icons
like Madonna, later Beyoncé, or top models like Linda Evangelista. It was the
golden age of spectacular, luxurious parades, regardless of expenses or small
or big scandals.
Chimera dress, insect dress
And an example of this unbridled creativity is the
"chimera dress" chosen to illustrate the exhibition: each scale was
made and painted by hand. A two-year job, to be admired by the public for only
two minutes on the catwalk.
Other crazy things were the "insect" dress that
Jerry Hall wore in 1997, or the corset in the shape of a motorcycle handlebar
(with mirrors included) by Emma Sjöberg in 1992, used in the video clip
"Too Funky" by George Michael ...
Mugler made and unmade until he retired from fashion in
2002. But fashion-addicted stars like Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Kim Kardashian
pull out their rags on big occasions, to remind themselves that not long ago,
extravagance was the norm.
"I did not make fashion, I did not follow any trend. I
explained a story, and somehow perpetuated it," recalls Thierry Mugler
(now 72 years old) in the exhibition catalog.
Their bodies were made of metal or Plexiglas, their dresses
used rubber, latex instead of leather, faux fur on top of vinyl jacket suits.
And tons of makeup on the models, in a hypersexualization of the woman that
made her more powerful if possible.
His style left a trail, but commercially only one witness
remains, his line of perfumes. In 1992 he launched "Angel", a perfume
in which he put a molecule used for candies. Result: he disputed first
place in sales to the legendary Chanel No. 5.
"Mugler wanted to get out of haute couture, which
belonged to an elite, and shows that young people could also wear it, and that
it could be more than just a dress to go to a chic evening," emphasizes
Thierry-Maxime Loriot.
His audacity caused a stir in the most unexpected places. In
1985, the then French Culture Minister Jack Lang was booed in the French
National Assembly because of his Mao-style suit, without a tie, signed by
Mugler.
"Opera in nine acts"
The Thierry Mugler exhibition will be presented as an
"opera in nine acts" with installations and visual effects.
"People no longer go to the movies because they have
Netflix. Well, here they will be able to discover the Mugler universe through
photos, paintings, and fragments of shorts", highlights the curator of the
exhibition.
A statement of principles in a world where the most
important thing is "to be loved on social networks," he explains.
"We all like to listen to music on the radio, watch a
movie on the computer screen, fashion in a virtual way. But the real emotion is
what you experience when you are in direct contact with creation", adds
the director of the Museum of Decorative Arts, Olivier Gabet. (AFP)
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